Winter geese, swans and ducks
49 winter geese, swans and ducks along the East Atlantic Flyway, from Norway to Angola: when each one peaks, where to go on your own, what it costs and what you will hear. Wild animals only, no zoos.
Best time, place by place
Where to go, north to south
Varanger in winter: Steller's and king eidersLong-tailed duck yodelling from rafts of hundreds, king and Steller's eider crooning at close range in the harbours, the crunch of sea ice on the shore, wind; fish-plant conveyors and the odd trawler.
Wadden Sea autumn: geese, waders and whooper swans in the marshBarnacle goose yapping in flocks of tens of thousands over the Ballum marsh, brent geese growling on the flats, golden plover flocks whistling, whooper swan families bugling on the polders at night, curlew; the tide.
Pink-footed goose dawn flightsTens of thousands of geese lifting off the mudflats at first light in a wall of 'wink-wink' calls, wave after wave overhead.
Whooper swans & barnacle geeseBugling whoopers and yapping barnacle flocks like a huge crowd; the whole Svalbard barnacle population is on one estuary.
Common cranes buglingTrumpeting bugles carrying over 2 km, unison calls from pairs, and the low rolling contact calls of a roosting group in the reeds.
Light-bellied brent geese arriving in Dublin BayThe soft, rolling 'rrronk' chorus of brent flocks on the lagoon and the salt marsh, godwits and knot calling at the roost, curlews over the mudflats — all against the hum of Dublin port, the DART and the city.
Greenland white-fronted geese on the Wexford SlobsThe high, laughing, musical yelps of thousands of white-fronts lifting off the harbour and dropping onto the fields; brent geese's low growl along the shore; whooper swan bugling; wigeon whistling; curlews over the sand flats.
Lauwersmeer in winter: barnacle geese, wigeon and sea eaglesBarnacle geese yapping in a continuous chorus on the polder and the roar of 10,000 lifting at once; greylags and white-fronts honking in the dawn flight; wigeon whistling in the dark; eagles' yelps; the Dark Sky Park is genuinely quiet at night.
Oostkustpolders: pink-footed and white-fronted geese of the Flemish coastThe high, yelping chorus of thousands of pink-footed geese on the meadows and the roar when a flock lifts at a harrier; white-fronts' laughing calls; wigeon whistling; skylarks and lapwings in mild spells.
Lower Oder Valley: whooper swans, geese and the flooded poldersWhooper swan bugling in chorus over the polder ice-edge, geese lifting at dawn by the thousand, smew and goldeneye wing-whistle, eagle yelps; in October, cranes; in May, corncrakes at night.
Lake Constance winter: 100,000+ waterbirds in the UnterseeMassed diving-duck rafts (wing-whistle on take-off), coot squabbles, whooper swan choruses, bean geese, gull roosts; the Untersee is shallow and calm, so sound carries across the water from the Swiss shore.
Arctic geese on the Lower RhineWhite-fronted geese's high yelping in skeins of thousands, bean geese's deeper 'kayak', the roar of a roost lifting off the Rhine at first light, whooper swans on the Bislicher Altrhein; barges and the A57 underneath.
Flamingo colonies of the CamargueGoose-like honking from thousands of birds, the massed 'marching' displays, and flights of hundreds passing low over the étangs at dusk.
Baie de l'Aiguillon: wader roosts and winter geeseThe roar of 20,000 dunlin and plover lifting off the mud as the tide covers it, godwit and curlew flocks calling as they cross the dyke, wigeon whistling by the thousand on winter mornings, greylags at dawn and, in December, cranes bugling in to roost over the marsh.
Wintering cranes at ArjuzanxWaves of cranes dropping into the flooded roost after dark, a continuous rolling chorus that carries for kilometres over the pine plantations.
Wintering waterbirds on the lakes: Fanel, Klingnau, Untersee, LémanDiving-duck rafts and wing-whistle, whooper swans in the Ermatinger Becken, bean geese at Klingnau, pintail whistles, coot squabbles, gull roost lift-off; church bells across the lake.
Goose autumn at the Lange Lacke, SeewinkelGeese in skeins of thousands crossing the pastures at dusk, greylag chatter on the soda lake roost through the night, cranes trumpeting overhead in late October, eagle calls; the salt-steppe silence in between.
Rhine delta on Lake Constance: migration and winter raftsDiving-duck rafts and wing-whistle, coot, whooper swans, gull roosts, curlew and godwit on the shallows in autumn; reed warblers and bittern in spring; the lake's fetch.
Wintering waterfowl on the Drava reservoirsThousands of gulls lifting off the roost at dawn, goldeneye wing-whistle, whooper swans on cold-wave years, greylag flocks; the Ptuj dam and the town road behind.
Vrana Lake: wintering ducks and the reedbed springMassed coot and duck rafts, wigeon whistling, marsh harrier; in spring purple heron croaks, pygmy cormorant colony chatter, great reed warbler, tree frogs and marsh frogs, scops owl from the olive groves at night.
Flamingo colonies & courtshipGoose-like gabbling of big flocks, and the synchronised 'marching' displays with a constant honking.
Winter wetlands: geese, ducks & cranesGoose flights at dawn, whistling wigeon rafts, cranes bugling as they pass north in late winter.
Wintering cranes in the Extremadura dehesaTens of thousands of cranes flying into the roosts at sunset in wave after wave, bugling in the acorn dehesa by day, with wintering lapwings, golden plovers and greylags.
Wintering greylags at VillafáfilaWaves of greylags leaving the saline lagoons at first light in a continuous honking chorus, with great bustards grunting on the stubble and cranes overhead.
Doñana in winter: geese and the marismasTens of thousands of greylags calling at first light, wigeon whistling in rafts, flamingos honking, glossy ibis colonies grunting, and the near-total absence of roads in the marsh core.
Tagus estuary in winter: flamingos, avocets and 100,000 waterbirdsFlamingo flocks honking as they move between the estuary and the Lezíria rice fields, avocet and godwit roosts chattering on the salinas at high tide, teal whistling on the lagoons and the great winter silence of the open marsh broken by hunters' shots outside the reserve.
Oued Souss estuary — Audouin's gulls, flamingos and waders at Agadir's doorA gull-and-wader soundscape: Audouin's gulls' nasal calls, slender-billed and laughing gulls, flamingos honking, stilts and greenshank — over Agadir's surf and the N10 bridge traffic. Not a hushed site, but a very accessible one.
Sidi Moussa–Oualidia lagoons — 10,000 waders, flamingos and the salt-pan roostsAvocet and stilt yelping over the salt pans, godwit and dunlin flocks whirring up at each marsh harrier, flamingo honking from the lagoon, slender-billed gulls — against surf on the dune bar and the oyster farms' outboards.
Saharan lagoons — Khnifiss and Dakhla Bay in winterFlamingo honking in the hundreds across a lagoon with no other sound at all, wader flocks lifting, the rattle of royal and Caspian terns, and on Dakhla Bay the blow of a humpback dolphin close to shore.
Wintering waders and ducks on Merja ZergaA continuous layer of wader contact calls over the lagoon, whole flocks lifting in a rush of wings when a marsh harrier crosses, flamingo honking from the shallows, and the bark of grey herons. Boatmen's pirogues are still mostly rowed or poled inside the lagoon.
Marchica lagoon, the Moulouya mouth and the Mohammed V reservoir — the Mediterranean east in winterFlamingo honking across a lagoon the size of a city, wigeon whistling, shelduck, the bugling of common cranes at the Mohammed V shore at dusk, and in spring a booming bittern and avocet colony clamour at the Moulouya mouth. Nador's traffic and the fishermen's outboards are the backdrop; the Moulouya is quieter.
White-headed ducks and marbled teal wintering on Lac Sidi BoughabaCoots, moorhens and purple swamphens whooping and grunting from the reeds at dusk, the growl of little grebes, marbled teal's thin whistles, and the only reliable Moroccan chorus of white-headed duck display rattles in late winter. Marsh owl wing-beats and barks over the northern reeds after dark.
Two million waders wintering on the Banc d'ArguinA roar of wings when a roost of tens of thousands lifts, knot and godwit flocks calling on the move, flamingos and spoonbills in the shallows, and the only human sound the creak of an Imraguen lanche's sail. Night roosts murmur continuously.
Diawling floodplain — pelicans, flamingos and Palearctic ducksPelican flotillas grunting, garganey and pintail flocks whirring off the flooded basins, flamingo chorus, and the low background of the Diama dam and the Senegal river.
Baie du Lévrier — 37,000 gulls, terns and waders in Nouadhibou's bayA big gull and tern roost — royal and Caspian tern screams, slender-billed and Audouin's gulls, knot and godwit flocks — beside one of West Africa's busiest fishing ports; the iron-ore train and the harbour are the backdrop, the Baie de l'Étoile north of town is the quiet, dolphin-haunted end.
Technopole — Dakar's urban wetland roostWader and stilt calls over rain-fed lakes ringed by the Pikine suburbs; more a sighting spectacle, but the heron roost at dusk is loud.
Palearctic ducks and waders wintering at DjoudjGarganey and pintail flocks in the hundreds of thousands lifting off the Grand Lac in continuous waves, whistling ducks and spur-winged geese over the pirogue, flamingo chorus in the shallows and the wing-roar of a pelican colony taking off — one of the loudest waterbird soundscapes on the whole flyway.
Somone lagoon — pelicans, flamingos and the sandbank roost on the Petite CôtePelican wings and bill-clapping as the flock lands, tern and gull roost clamour, flamingo honks, spoonbills and herons in the mangrove, osprey whistles — small-scale next to the Saloum but the closest proper lagoon roost to the Saly resorts, and quiet at dawn before the jet-skis.
Kartong — wetland pools, Allahein river mouth and turtle beachCrakes and pygmy geese in the sand-mine pools, a wader roost at the Allahein mouth, and on rainy-season nights the beach with the surf and, if you are lucky, a nesting green turtle's breathing.
Tendaba — Bao Bolong mangrove creeks and Kiang West savannaFish eagles duetting across the Gambia river, the mangrove's clicks and splashes at low water, kingfishers and bee-eaters in the creeks, and Pel's fishing owl's deep hoot from the camp at night.
Tanbi wetlands and the Bund Road lagoons — Banjul's wader, gull and egret roostsA roost at the city's edge: the squabble of two or three hundred grey-headed gulls on the sand island, royal tern screams, whimbrel and godwit calls off the mud, and at dusk the wing-rush and grunting of thousands of cattle egrets dropping into the Cape Creek mangroves — all under Banjul's traffic, the ferry horn and the Friday mosque.
Bijagós intertidal flats — the flyway's second great wader wintering groundWhimbrel and godwit flocks calling over enormous intertidal flats with no engine noise for kilometres, tern roosts on the sandbanks, mangrove crackle at low tide, and the islands' own forest and village sounds behind.
Cacheu mangroves — West Africa's largest continuous mangrove blockThe full mangrove soundscape — fiddler crabs, mudskippers, snapping shrimp under water, herons and kingfishers above — in channels wide enough that no village sound reaches, with crowned cranes on the rice edges.
Cufada lagoons — wintering ducks and the heron roostWhistling ducks and garganey over the largest freshwater lagoons in the country, fish eagles, and a mixed heron and egret roost that fills the lakeside trees at dusk.
Tristão islands and the Rio Nunez estuary — waders, terns and mangroveWader and tern roosts on mangrove-fringed sandbanks at the southern end of the Bijagós system, with the mangrove's own crackle and the villages' fishing pirogues.
Sierra Leone River estuary and Yawri Bay — wintering waders on Freetown's doorstepWader and tern roosts on the mudflats of one of West Africa's biggest estuaries, with mangrove crackle, pelicans and the constant boat traffic of Freetown's harbour.
Lake Piso — wintering waders, terns and the mangrove lagoonTern and wader roosts on the bar where the lagoon meets the Atlantic, mangrove creek sound in the northern arms, surf on Robertsport's beaches and, at night, fruit bats and frogs from the forested shore.
Waterbirds of Lake Nokoué and GanviéBlack terns and whiskered terns calling over the fish-parks, egrets and herons settling at dusk, jacanas on the lily beds and the paddle-and-pole sounds of a stilt town of 30,000 people.
Hadejia-Nguru wetlands: Sahelian floodplain waterfowlWhistling-duck choruses overhead at dusk, the massed wing-noise of garganey and pintail flushing off a pool, ruff flocks, ibis and herons in the flooded acacia and the Sahel wind in typha and doum palms.