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Wintering waders and ducks on Merja Zerga

A flock of dunlins flying low over the shore
Dunlin. Photo: Donald Macauley from Carshalton, Surrey, UK, CC BY-SA 2.0

Dunlin, bar-tailed godwit, grey plover, avocet, greater flamingo, wigeon, shoveler, pintail, marbled teal; Audouin's & slender-billed gulls. Moulay Bousselham, Gharb coast, Morocco.

Best time: 15 Nov – 15 Feb (November to February). Where: Moulay Bousselham – lagoon jetty and boatmen, South-east shore track (Merja Zerga eastern basin), Lac de Sidi Boughaba (Mehdia, Kénitra) (Morocco). Time of day: Rising tide in the 2 hours before high water pushes 50,000+ waders onto the roosts.

Open it in the interactive calendarSunrise and sunset listening times for the day you pick, and the map.

When is the best time?

Peak: 15 Nov – 15 Feb. Mid November to mid February; the January count is the reference

Active from 1 Oct to 31 Mar (October to March) in a typical year.

Time of day

Rising tide in the 2 hours before high water pushes 50,000+ waders onto the roosts; dawn and the last hour before dark for duck and flamingo movement

Depends on the tide: best around high tide. Check local tide tables.

What will you hear?

A continuous layer of wader contact calls over the lagoon, whole flocks lifting in a rush of wings when a marsh harrier crosses, flamingo honking from the shallows, and the bark of grey herons. Boatmen's pirogues are still mostly rowed or poled inside the lagoon.

Binoculars?

Telescope recommended. Roosts of 50,000 waders are far out on the flats from the shore; scope from the shore, binoculars from the pirogue.

Where to go

How to go on your own, and what it costs

Bus or grand taxi to Moulay Bousselham (from Kénitra or Larache); the lagoon shore, the jetty and the farm tracks round the eastern basin are free and open at all hours. The roost flats can't be walked, so the inside of the lagoon is by local pirogue — hired on the spot at the jetty, no operator needed.

Cost: Shore free; boatman roughly 150–300 MAD for 2–3 hours per boat (recent trip reports) — check current prices.

Free or no-guide alternative: Walk the south-east shore track from the village towards the Oued Drader inflow at first light: the same duck flight and wader roost calls from the public bank, no boat.

Field-recording notes

The lagoon is open Atlantic coast: wind almost every afternoon, calm most dawns. Village noise (calls to prayer, generators, the Friday souk) reaches the north shore; the eastern basin is quieter. A boat is the only way to sit inside the roost soundfield, and a rowed pirogue at the mudflat edge on a rising tide is a superb platform — brief the boatman to stop and drift, no engine. This is a Biological Reserve: no walking onto the roost flats, no playback. Hunting is closed inside the reserve but waterfowl shooting happens on surrounding marshes in season (Oct–Feb), so expect shots at dawn on weekends.

Sources

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More: all spectacles in Morocco · winter geese, swans and ducks · Morocco in January · Morocco in February · Morocco in November · Morocco in December