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Fazao-Malfakassa: elephants, colobus and ground hornbills in the hills

Forest elephant mother and calf in a forest clearing
African forest elephant. Photo: Thomas Breuer, CC BY 2.5

Savanna/forest elephant (about 40 animals), ursine colobus, olive baboon, kob, Abyssinian ground hornbill, bateleur, martial eagle. Parc national de Fazao-Malfakassa, Centrale & Kara regions, Togo.

Best time: 1 Jan – 31 Mar (January to March). Where: Fazao village – park entrance and former hotel, Malfakassa – northern sector escarpment (Togo). Time of day: Walks with a ranger from sunrise to about 10:00.

Open it in the interactive calendarSunrise and sunset listening times for the day you pick, and the map.

When is the best time?

Peak: 1 Jan – 31 Mar. January to March, late dry season, when the elephants are tied to the remaining pools and the tracks are passable

Active from 15 Nov to 30 Apr (November to April) in a typical year.

Time of day

Walks with a ranger from sunrise to about 10:00; ground hornbills boom in the first hour of light; colobus roar at dawn and again before dusk

What will you hear?

The deep booming duet of ground hornbills across dry woodland, the rolling roar of ursine colobus from gallery forest, baboons on the escarpment and — with luck and patience — elephants at a pool at night.

Binoculars?

Binoculars essential. Colobus and hornbills in gallery forest and elephants at pools seen from 100 m+ with rangers; binoculars needed.

Where to go

How to go on your own, and what it costs

Rangers accompany all visits (park rule). Cheapest legal way: bus to Sokodé or Bafilo, taxi-moto to Fazao village, and arrange the rangers and fee at the park post there; bring food and camping gear.

Cost: Park entry and ranger fee; check current prices at the Fazao post.

Free or no-guide alternative: Fazao village and the woodland along the public track to it are outside the boundary; ground hornbills, colobus and the dawn chorus carry over the fence and cost nothing.

Field-recording notes

The park is under state management with minimal infrastructure: bring everything, hire the rangers, and expect walking rather than driving. Wildlife is thin and wary after years of poaching, so this is a dawn-chorus and hornbill trip with elephants as a bonus, not a safari. Harmattan mornings are cold and hazy; bush fires from January onwards are audible for kilometres and are the main noise event. The Sokodé–Kara highway is far enough away not to matter.

Sources

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More: all spectacles in Togo · elephants · mountain wildlife · Togo in January · Togo in February · Togo in March