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Okomu: the white-throated monkey's forest and a 43-metre tree house at dawn

A white-throated guenon in the trees
White-throated guenon. Photo: KAKPO Sunday Berlioz, CC BY-SA 4.0

White-throated guenon (Cercopithecus erythrogaster, Endangered — Okomu is its stronghold), mona and putty-nosed monkeys, red-capped mangabey, forest elephant (Critically Endangered, rarely seen), forest buffalo, chimpanzee; about 150 bird species — hornbills, grey parrots, picathartes reported. Okomu National Park, Ovia South-West, Edo State, Nigeria.

Best time: 1 Dec – 28 Feb (December to February). Where: Okomu National Park – headquarters, chalets and the tree houses, Udo – access village on the Benin City road, Benin City – airport and transport hub (Nigeria). Time of day: From 40 minutes before sunrise to about 09:00 from the tree-house platform, when the guenon troops and hornbills move through the canopy.

Open it in the interactive calendarSunrise and sunset listening times for the day you pick, and the map.

When is the best time?

Peak: 1 Dec – 28 Feb. December to February, the dry season: the trails are dry, the canopy is thinner and the monkeys and hornbills are vocal from first light; the tree houses are usable without the daily storms

Active from 1 Nov to 31 Mar (November to March) in a typical year.

Time of day

From 40 minutes before sunrise to about 09:00 from the tree-house platform, when the guenon troops and hornbills move through the canopy; a second active hour before dusk; elephants are heard rather than seen, mostly at night from the chalets

What will you hear?

A lowland forest dawn from above the canopy: hornbills whooshing past at eye level, the chatter and 'pyow' alarm of white-throated and putty-nosed monkeys, mangabey whoops, grey parrots screaming to the fig trees, cicadas rising with the light; at night from the stilt chalets, tree hyrax, owls and, with luck, the crash of elephants in the swamp forest.

Binoculars?

Binoculars helpful. From the tree house the canopy is at eye level and hornbills pass within 20 m; binoculars for the guenons in the foliage.

Where to go

How to go on your own, and what it costs

Taxi or bus Benin City–Udo, then a motorbike or taxi to the park entrance; pay entry at the headquarters, hire the park guide for forest walks and the tree house, sleep in the stilt chalets for the dawn. No private walking in the forest.

Cost: Entry, guide and chalet rates are set by the Nigeria National Park Service and not published online — check current prices with the park office.

Free or no-guide alternative: The park road from Udo to the headquarters runs through forest and plantation edge: hornbills, parrots and the monkey chorus at dawn from the roadside before the entrance, no fee.

Field-recording notes

A guided park: forest walks are with a park guide, the tree house is reached with the guide and can be used from first light if arranged the evening before. A rig left on the platform overnight is possible by agreement with the conservator. Since 2022 the Africa Nature Investors Foundation has funded 38 extra rangers and the park is described as 'relatively peaceful' with logging at a minimum; expect chainsaw noise from the plantations outside the boundary and the Okomu Oil Palm estate on the park's edge. Southern Nigeria: check current travel advice for Edo State and travel by road only in daylight. No playback; the white-throated guenon is Endangered and hunted outside the park.

Sources

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More: all spectacles in Nigeria · dawn choruses · Nigeria in January · Nigeria in February · Nigeria in December