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Douala-Edéa and Lake Ossa: manatees, mangroves and the Sanaga mouth

West African manatee in the water
African manatee. Photo: Lucy Keith-Diagne, CC BY 4.0

African manatee (Trichechus senegalensis), hippopotamus, dwarf crocodile; herons, egrets, terns, Palearctic waders on the estuary; grey parrots in the mangroves. Douala-Edéa National Park and Lake Ossa, Littoral Region, Cameroon.

Best time: 1 Dec – 15 Feb (December to February). Where: Lake Ossa – Dizangué, Yoyo – Sanaga mouth and mangroves, Mouanko – park office (Cameroon). Time of day: Pirogue on Lake Ossa from sunrise for three hours.

Open it in the interactive calendarSunrise and sunset listening times for the day you pick, and the map.

When is the best time?

Peak: 1 Dec – 15 Feb. December to mid February: the drier season, calmer water and the best chance of manatees at the surface on Lake Ossa

Active from 15 Nov to 15 Mar (November to March) in a typical year.

Time of day

Pirogue on Lake Ossa from sunrise for three hours; manatees surface most at dusk and in the first hours of dark; grey parrots go to roost in the mangroves in the last hour of light

Depends on the tide: best around low tide. Check local tide tables.

What will you hear?

Grey parrot roost flights whistling over the mangroves at dusk, egrets and herons settling, the Sanaga estuary's terns, and at Lake Ossa the soft blows of manatees surfacing in the dark.

Binoculars?

Binoculars helpful. Parrots stream to roost overhead at dusk; binoculars for egrets and terns on the estuary, manatees are heard not seen.

Where to go

How to go on your own, and what it costs

Bus Douala–Edéa–Dizangué; hire a fisherman's pirogue at Lake Ossa (negotiate; no guide requirement on the lake, though AMMCO's local team is worth asking for the right bay). The national park mangroves need the park fee and a guide from Mouanko.

Cost: Pirogue hire by negotiation on Lake Ossa; park entry and guide for Douala-Edéa, check current prices.

Free or no-guide alternative: The public lakeshore at Dizangué and the beach at Yoyo (outside the mangrove core) are free: the parrot roost flights and the estuary birds cost nothing, manatees are a matter of patience from the shore at dusk.

Field-recording notes

Douala-Edéa became a national park in 2018: entry fee and a guide from the Mouanko office for the park, fishermen's pirogues at Lake Ossa (a wildlife reserve) with AMMCO's advice. Manatees are strictly protected and easily disturbed — no pursuit, a hydrophone from a stationary pirogue at dusk is the only method. Outboards, and the industrial plantations around Ossa, are the noise; the Douala port and refinery are audible on the northern estuary. Mosquitoes in the mangroves at dusk are relentless.

Sources

Similar spectacles

More: all spectacles in Cameroon · manatees · wildlife at night · Cameroon in January · Cameroon in February · Cameroon in December