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Kissama (Quiçama): elephants and the Cuanza river

African elephant mother with a young calf in the bush
African savanna elephant. Photo: Charles J. Sharp, CC BY-SA 4.0

Savanna elephant (reintroduced 2001–02, now around 200), giant sable? no — roan, eland, giraffe (reintroduced), bushbuck; hippos and crocodiles on the Cuanza; palm-nut vulture, African fish eagle. Parque Nacional da Quiçama, 70 km south of Luanda, Angola.

Best time: 1 Jul – 30 Sep (July to September). Where: Caua – park base on the Cuanza river, Muxima – Cuanza river and the park's northern gate, Cabo Ledo – coast at the park's western edge (Angola). Time of day: Game drives from sunrise to 10:00 and from 15:30.

Open it in the interactive calendarSunrise and sunset listening times for the day you pick, and the map.

When is the best time?

Peak: 1 Jul – 30 Sep. July to September: the dry cacimbo, when the tracks are open, the grass is low and the animals are on the Cuanza and the remaining pools

Active from 15 May to 31 Oct (May to October) in a typical year.

Time of day

Game drives from sunrise to 10:00 and from 15:30; boat trips on the Cuanza in the calm morning; hippos and elephants on the river at dusk

What will you hear?

Elephants on the Cuanza floodplain, hippos grunting from the river at dusk, fish eagles, and the coastal savanna's dawn of francolins, hornbills and doves — with the fog of the cacimbo damping everything until mid-morning.

Binoculars?

Binoculars essential. Elephants and hippos on the Cuanza floodplain from the vehicle or boat at 100–300 m; binoculars needed.

Where to go

How to go on your own, and what it costs

A park guide in the vehicle is required (park rule). Cheapest legal way: drive or share a car from Luanda to the park gate on the Cabo Ledo road, pay entry and the guide fee at the gate and use your own 4x4; the park's vehicles and lodge cost more.

Cost: Park entry per person and vehicle plus guide, check current prices; park safari truck 10,000 Kz adult (13+) / 6,000 Kz child 6–12, under 5 free, for two hours; park lodge about 40,000 Kz per night with breakfast, meals 10,000–15,000 Kz (2024).

Free or no-guide alternative: The Cuanza river at Muxima and the public road along the park's northern edge are outside the guide requirement: hippos and fish eagles from the village bank at dusk are free.

Field-recording notes

A park guide accompanies drives (park rule); your own 4x4 is allowed with one. The cacimbo fog gives dead, still mornings that clear by 10:00. The reintroduced herds are habituated to vehicles but not to people on foot. Luanda weekend traffic to the park base is the main disturbance; midweek in August is quiet. Boat engines on the Cuanza — negotiate engine-off drifts for hippos.

Sources

Similar spectacles

More: all spectacles in Angola · elephants · mountain wildlife · Angola in July · Angola in August · Angola in September