Tanji beach and the Bijol Islands — terns, gulls and the fish-landing roost

Royal, Caspian, sandwich & lesser crested terns, grey-headed & slender-billed gulls, Audouin's & lesser black-backed gulls (winter), western reef heron, long-tailed cormorant; green turtles nest on the islands. Tanji Bird Reserve, Kombo South, The Gambia.
Best time: 1 Nov – 31 Mar (November to March). Where: Tanji Bird Reserve – lagoon and dune scrub, Bijol Islands, Tanji fish-landing beach (The Gambia). Time of day: Late afternoon as the fishing pirogues land (about 15:00 to sunset) for the beach roost.
- Partly on your own
- Low cost
- Binoculars helpful
- Sound 4/5
Open it in the interactive calendarSunrise and sunset listening times for the day you pick, and the map.
When is the best time?
Peak: 1 Nov – 31 Mar. November to March for the Palearctic gull and tern roost on Tanji beach (thousands); the Bijol colonies breed roughly April–July — check with DPWM for this year's status
Active from 1 Jan to 31 Dec (all year) in a typical year.
Time of day
Late afternoon as the fishing pirogues land (about 15:00 to sunset) for the beach roost; dawn for the reserve's lagoon
- Lagoon dawn: first light → 2 h after sunrise
- Fish landing roost: 15:00 → sunset
Depends on the tide: best around low tide. Check local tide tables.
What will you hear?
A gull-and-tern roost of thousands screaming over the fish-landing beach as pirogues come in, the market crowd, the smokehouses, and across the water the Bijol colonies — The Gambia's only breeding seabirds.
Binoculars?
Binoculars helpful. The beach roost is at close range among the pirogues; binoculars for the lagoon and the Bijol colonies 3 km offshore need a scope.
Where to go
- Tanji Bird Reserve – lagoon and dune scrub — 612 ha reserve 3 km north of Tanji village: entry post on the coast road, paths to the lagoon and beach. Map
- Bijol Islands — Islets 3 km offshore; landing only with a DPWM permit and warden — the colonies and turtle nests are closed in season. Map
- Tanji fish-landing beach — The roost is on the beach south of the reserve, in the middle of the fishing village. Map
How to go on your own, and what it costs
Gelly-gelly (minibus) or taxi from Serekunda to Tanji on the coast road; the reserve has a small entry fee at the gate and open paths, and the fish beach is free. The Bijol Islands need a DPWM permit and a boat from Tanji with the warden — arrange a day ahead at the reserve office.
Cost: Reserve entry a small DPWM fee (a few dalasi hundred; check current prices); beach free; Bijol boat and permit check current prices.
Free or no-guide alternative: The Tanji fish beach roost and the sea views to the Bijol Islands are free from the public beach at any hour; the colonies are only distantly audible from there.
Who runs access
- DPWM Tanji reserve office (Bijol permits & wardens) (park authority) — Government reserve; permit and boat via the office.
Field-recording notes
The beach roost is a human-and-bird recording: outboards, the fish market, smoke and crowds. The reserve lagoon at dawn is the clean take. Dry-season harmattan haze and dust coat capsules; humidity is 90%+ in the rains. Bijol landings are by DPWM permit only (arranged at the Tanji reserve office or Abuko HQ) and the warden decides distance; no drones over the islands.
Sources
Similar spectacles
The Tinhosas: the only great seabird colony of the eastern tropical AtlanticA sooty tern colony of this size is a wall of sound audible from a kilometre downwind: the 'wide-awake' calls of over a quarter of a million birds, noddies' rattles, booby honks, surf on bare rock. From a drifting boat with the engine off it is one of the great seabird sound events of the Atlantic.
Banc d'Arguin terns & Arcachon brent geeseA grating Sandwich tern colony of thousands of pairs on a sandbank in the Atlantic swell; in winter, the rolling 'rronk' of brent flocks on the eelgrass beds.
Balearic shearwater & storm petrel islandsHoarse, cackling Balearic shearwaters arriving to cliff burrows after dark, storm petrels purring in cave crevices, Audouin's gull colonies and Eleonora's falcons screaming over the sea in late summer.
Île Alcatraz — the only brown booby colony between Cabo Verde and São ToméA tropical booby rock: the braying and whistling of thousands of brown boobies, the grating roar of a royal tern colony, wings everywhere, guano and fish — a sound that exists nowhere else on the West African mainland coast. Only the sea and your own outboard compete.
Red-billed tropicbird colony, Îles de la MadeleineTropicbirds' rasping, ratcheting display screams as pairs circle the basalt cliffs of Sarpan island a few metres overhead, surf in the sea caves, and Dakar's hum across 4 km of water.
Sherbro and the Turtle Islands — terns, waders and turtle beachesTern and wader roosts on white sandbanks between eight Sherbro-speaking fishing islands, surf, and the villages' evening singing; dolphins in the channels.
More: all spectacles in The Gambia · seabird colonies · The Gambia in January · The Gambia in February · The Gambia in March · The Gambia in November · The Gambia in December