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Saltwater hippos of Orango

Hippos in a lagoon on Orango island
Hippopotamus. Photo: Joehawkins, CC BY-SA 4.0

Hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) — the Bijagós population that swims between islands and grazes on the beaches. Orango National Park, Bijagós, Guinea-Bissau.

Best time: 1 Dec – 30 Apr (December to April). Where: Anor lagoon, Orango (from Eticoga), Eticoga beach, Orango (Guinea-Bissau). Time of day: Guided walk to the lagoon in the last 2 hours of daylight.

Open it in the interactive calendarSunrise and sunset listening times for the day you pick, and the map.

When is the best time?

Peak: 1 Dec – 30 Apr. December to April, when the freshwater lagoons shrink and the hippos are concentrated in the Anor lagoon and on the beaches at night

Active from 1 Nov to 31 May (November to May) in a typical year.

Time of day

Guided walk to the lagoon in the last 2 hours of daylight; the animals leave for the beaches and the sea after dark and grunt through the night

What will you hear?

Hippo grunts and blows from a lagoon inside island forest, then the same animals walking past the village beach at night and surfacing in the sea in the morning — the world's only regularly marine hippos.

Binoculars?

Binoculars helpful. Hippos in the Anor lagoon at 50–100 m in the last light; binoculars help, ears do the night.

Where to go

How to go on your own, and what it costs

The Anor lagoon is inside the national park and sacred to the village: park rule is a local guide from Eticoga. Cheapest legal way: get yourself to Eticoga (boat from Bubaque), pay the park fee and hire a village guide at the park post rather than a packaged tour.

Cost: IBAP park entry 5,000 CFA foreign / 2,000 CFA Guinean per person per day, hippo-observation fee 10,000 CFA per person, village guide 10,000 CFA per outing for a group of up to 5 (IBAP tariff, 2021) — about 17,000–25,000 CFA per person for the Anor lagoon.

Free or no-guide alternative: From the public beach at Eticoga and the neighbouring shore you see hippo tracks at dawn and can hear the animals grunting at sea and in the mangrove at night, free — the lagoon itself is guide-only.

Field-recording notes

Hippos are dangerous on foot, and the park does not allow you to the lagoon without its guide — accept it. A static rig at the lagoon edge left overnight (with the guide's placement) is the way to catch the full night; humidity and insects are the enemy. No village, no engine: this is as quiet as the region gets. Park entry fee, guide fee and a contribution to the village apply.

Sources

Similar spectacles

More: all spectacles in Guinea-Bissau · hippos · wildlife at night · Guinea-Bissau in January · Guinea-Bissau in February · March · April · Guinea-Bissau in December