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Eleonora's falcons hunting migrants off Essaouira

An Eleonora's falcon in flight
Eleonora's falcon. Photo: Mike Prince from Bangalore, India, CC BY 2.0

Eleonora's falcon (Falco eleonorae). Mogador (Purpuraires) islands, Essaouira, Morocco.

Best time: 15 Aug – 10 Oct (August to October). Where: Essaouira – Skala de la Ville / Bab Doukkala ramparts, Mogador (Purpuraire) islands, Sidi Bouknadel cliffs (Rabat–Kénitra coast) (Morocco). Time of day: First 2 hours after sunrise and the last 2 before sunset, when falcons hunt low over the sea in packs.

Open it in the interactive calendarSunrise and sunset listening times for the day you pick, and the map.

When is the best time?

Peak: 15 Aug – 10 Oct. Mid August to early October, when chicks are being fed on the autumn passerine passage

Active from 1 May to 31 Oct (May to October) in a typical year.

Time of day

First 2 hours after sunrise and the last 2 before sunset, when falcons hunt low over the sea in packs; middle of the day for the colony's aerial displays

What will you hear?

High 'kyah-kyah' alarm and contact calls carrying across 1 km of water from the colony (over 1,200 nests counted in 2016 — one of the largest in the world), and the surf and gull colony beneath.

Binoculars?

Telescope recommended. The colony is a kilometre offshore from the ramparts; a scope is the only way to watch it, binoculars for falcons hunting the beach.

Where to go

How to go on your own, and what it costs

Essaouira ramparts and the beach are public and free at any hour; the colony is a kilometre away, so bring a scope and a long reach. Fishing boats at the port will circle the islands (agree distance and price on the quay). The Bouknadel cliff colony is on the public clifftop off the Rabat–Kénitra coast road.

Cost: Free from the ramparts (2026); port boat trip — check current prices.

Field-recording notes

Essaouira is the windiest town on the coast — the trade wind is why the kitesurfers are there — and the colony sits a kilometre offshore, so this is a parabolic or long-shotgun job from the ramparts in the first calm hour, or a hydrophone-free boat drift with the engine off. Town noise (gulls, souk, wind in the walls) is heavy; the beach south of the port at first light is the quietest land position. The Bouknadel cliff gives the closer, cleaner falcon voice. No drones anywhere near the islands.

Sources

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More: all spectacles in Morocco · birds of prey · August · Morocco in September · Morocco in October